A Mom’s Guide to Rocky Mountain National Park

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National Parks are a popular bucket list item and summer is an ideal time to visit them as most of the trails are open and weather cooperates best. Rocky Mountain National Park is no exception and we are lucky enough in Denver to be less than a two-hour drive away!

(Even better, if you have a fourth grader in your family, then you are in close proximity AND your fourth grader can get your car in for free with the fourth grade national parks pass!)

Note: There are two entrances to Rocky Mountain National Park – one on the west side near Grand Lake and one on the east in Estes Park. Given that Estes Park is on the “Denver side” and near the airport visitors fly into, and a majority of trails and attractions are in the eastern part of the park, that is the part of the park this guide will cover.

On Your Way to Rocky Mountain National Park

While it’s a short drive from Denver, and you could easily shoot up I-25 to Highway 66 through Lyons, if you’re up for taking a bit longer and enjoying the scenic route, check out the Peak to Peak Scenic Highway. Just west of Denver and north of I-70, the Peak to Peak highway takes you from Black Hawk straight into Estes Park. A few spots will have those afraid of heights closing their eyes (so make sure the driver is not!), but it is do-able for those with a fear and incredible for those without. Check out this Colorado Department of Transportation link to chart your specific route to the highway.

Prior to arrival to Rocky Mountain National Park, you will want to be sure you’ve studied the website about the park’s timed entry passes and reservation process. From May 24 through mid-October, timed entry passes are required for entering the park (in addition to the paid park pass required year-round). Furthermore, if you would like to explore the incredibly popular sites along Bear Lake Rd., you need a specific Timed Entry+ pass (entry plus Bear Lake Rd.). It doesn’t take long to navigate the website and pick your day/time, but taking care to do that will go a long way to making sure you have a great visit!

Mom Tip: If at all possible, I highly recommend picking a date where you can get the Timed Entry+ pass so that you can explore Bear Lake Road. There are many wonderful family friendly hikes along that road. However, if you don’t manage to, you do not need a pass for Bear Lake Rd. after 6pm and you do not need a Timed Entry pass after 2 p.m. for non-Bear Lake Rd. Late afternoon and after-dinner drives are beautiful and actually provide lots of wildlife sightings! This is a great option in summertime when sunset is so late. Best to be out of the park by dark, though!

Altitude Precautions

Keep in mind that Estes Park is at 7,522 ft which can take some acclimating on its own, but most of the park is even higher than that reaching as high as almost 12,000 ft along parts of Trail Ridge Rd and everything in between. Drink lots of water and know the signs of altitude sickness. It’s always a good idea to visit this Know Before You Go page to be aware of safety precautions before your visit: Keep reading for things to do in Estes Park if you need a low key first day or two before you start hiking!

Rocky Mountain National Park Hikes

You can check trail conditions before you go, which is very important because it is easy to forget that summer does not mean sunny, dry and hot at 10,000 ft. Many trails may still be snowy and/or icy in early summer and you need to be prepared. Especially if you are exploring and hiking during the Fall, Winter or Spring, looking into trail conditions is crucial. Also important is knowing the difficulty of the trail. This guide intends to point you to family-friendly hikes, but what every family is capable of varies widely. Alltrails.com is a great site to search your specific trail interests so that you can plan what’s right for your group.

If you are only able to obtain the Timed Entry pass, don’t dismay – there are still many fantastic things to see and explore on the roads that are not Bear Lake Rd!

Lily Lake Trailhead

On the eastern side of Estes Park, Lily Lake Trailhead is a flat, easy trail around a beautiful lake. Twin Sisters is a trailhead not far beyond Lily Lake but would be better for more experienced hikers. Both might feel like they are outside the national park because they are east of town, but be aware that you still need a park pass and timed entry permit as they are technically part of the national park.

Inside the park entrance stations, but not on Bear Lake Road (therefore, a simple Timed Entry pass will suffice), you have many options to drive, hike, explore and picnic.

Alluvial Fan

The Alluvial Fan near the Endovalley campground was created by a dam breach in the eighties and the cascading waterfall and debris left behind is a popular spot to look for bighorn sheep while clambering up rocks and boulders (there is also a simple path you can enjoy if that’s more your speed).

Beaver Ponds

The Beaver Ponds is a short boardwalk where spotting moose is common. You can sit and stay a while or you can check quickly for a moose and be on your way.  You simply park along the road and walk the short boardwalk. Not far beyond the Beaver Ponds is a stop called Hidden Valley. Formerly a ski slope, it is now a picnic area, large parking lot and good restrooms! While you’re taking one of the better restroom stops in the park, you are likely to see wildlife so keep an eye out!

All of these sites can be found on a map of Rocky Mountain National Park given out at entrance stations, or you can plan ahead with a map here: Rocky Mountain National Park Brochure (nps.gov). No matter where you are driving in the park, keep your eyes open – big horn sheep, elk, moose, deer, coyotes and more could be spotted at any moment!

Bear Lake Road

Now, for the coveted Timed Entry+ pass that includes Bear Lake Rd. There are many family friendly hikes, but there are also plenty of moderate to difficult trails that connect to each other and have you exploring all over the park. Always know what you plan to do before you go so that you do not end up on a trail beyond your family’s limits.

You begin Bear Lake Rd. driving along through Moraine Meadow – be on the lookout! Wildlife love these woods and bends as you approach the meadow and the meadow is known for LOTS of elk! You’re sure to see something! All along the road you will also notice picnic tables with gorgeous views of a river and mountain peaks. Don’t hesitate to snag a parking spot along the road and have a picnic – you’d be amazed how long you can linger at a roadside picnic table with those kinds of views!

Sprague Lake

Sprague Lake is a great option to stop with kids or grandparents – anyone who might need a lower key hike. There are bathrooms at the parking area and more picnic tables. The trail is about a mile loop. Loops are nice with kids because they never see the same thing twice! It is a flat, easy trail but it is not paved. If you have littles with a stroller, depending if it is designed for rougher terrain, it might be manageable. Otherwise, you might enjoy letting them walk or carrying non-walkers more. It is not strenuous and the scenery is worth it!

Alberta Falls

Alberta Falls is a gorgeous waterfall worth the effort to see! The parking at this trailhead is very limited so you might want to park at the shuttle lot and take advantage of this trailhead having a shuttle stop. The trail to Alberta Falls has some incline (elevation change) that might challenge some, and I wouldn’t use a stroller, but would be doable for most families. The waterfall is very rewarding!

Bear Lake Trailhead

The Bear Lake trailhead is the culmination of the road that gets all the Timed Entry+ hype. One reason for this is that it is a trailhead to many different places. You can actually park here and hike down to Alberta Falls – read up on your options so you can decide which direction you’d like to approach the Falls from (the shuttle drivers are well versed on the different options too). Bear Lake itself is small but gorgeous and accessible to most. It is very popular because it is a mostly flat loop. There is a slight bit of incline about halfway around but not significant. Starting about October, be aware that the trail in the shade (coincidentally the part with the incline) can get icy and might be difficult without spikes on your shoes.

Bear Lake is a beautiful lake surrounded by mountains and there is a different beauty to it at every time of day. When we couldn’t get parking earlier in the day one year, we returned after 5pm to a half-empty parking lot and were pleasantly surprised by the serene beauty low crowds and coming sunset brought. You really can’t see Bear Lake at a bad time of day, so don’t be discouraged if you have to adjust your plan.

The trail to Nymph Lake, Dream Lake and finally Emerald Lake leaves from the same parking lot and shuttle stop as Bear Lake. This is a nice option for families capable of more difficulty than Bear Lake without being too hard. It has a couple of spots that might bother someone afraid of heights but is not unmanageable. Many families are capable of making the trail entirely to Emerald Lake, but one benefit of this trail is that you can decide to turn around and head back at any time. Even if you only go so far as Nymph Lake (so many fantastic lily pads!) or Dream Lake before heading back, you will still feel like you saw something wonderful! Don’t forget to check trail conditions because this one can stay snowy until mid-summer.

Mom Tip: Be patient and willing to go early. Even with the Timed Entry+ pass, we encountered some frustration that parking is no guarantee. If earlier arrivals have filled the lots, they might not be gone yet. Even the remote shuttle lot to Bear Lake was full on our most recent trip. But we found a spot along the road and walked up to the lot to catch the shuttle and still had a great day. If you’re capable of the earliest time slot, this will likely not be an issue. But if not, be patient and go along for the ride!

Things To Do in Estes Park

The national park is wonderful and probably your main attraction, but for a first day, an off day or in the afternoons and evenings after you’ve returned for the day, Estes Park has a lot to offer!

Shop Downtown

Elkhorn Avenue is the main drag of shops, treats and eateries. Fall River runs right through town and makes for a delightful day meandering the shops and still feeling right next to nature. Pick one end or the other to park and then walk and shop along the whole riverwalk. The river is relaxing and picturesque the entire way. The riverwalk is stroller-friendly and adults can trade off shopping and watching the kids enjoy the river (not swimming). There are bathrooms and parking on the west end near Elkhorn & Spruce or midway at Elkhorn & Riverside. From Christmas shops and souvenirs to gear, taffy and restaurants, Elkhorn Avenue has everything. Plus, there are mini parks along the way to get kids’ wiggles out!

Mom Tip: Because it’s the main drag, traffic gets busy. There is a bypass behind Elkhorn and a big parking lot off Rockwell St behind the Elkhorn shops if you’d like to park midway and avoid driving on Elkhorn. In general, there is currently construction around town so be prepared to be patient and enjoy!

Stanley Hotel

Famous from the filming of The Shining, it is fun to look around the Stanley Hotel. Whether you’re familiar with the film or not, it is a beautiful hotel that takes you back in time. You pay a small parking fee and then can look around on your own. They have a garden maze out front, a display of The Shining memorabilia in the basement and a coffee shop with snacks. If you enjoy spooky things, visitors 8 years old and up can take a Night Tour and find out about the ghost stories associated with the hotel. Tickets are required.

Birch Ruins

A famous story in Estes Park involves a man in the early 1900s who had a house built to enjoy the views of the Rockies but it burned down in a devastating fire. Enough ruins remain today for visitors to take a leisurely stroll and see what houses in that time period were like (somewhat). More than anything, the views from those ruins are amazing! On a day in town, it’s worth a look – adults and children will enjoy seeing the old-fashioned construction and surroundings. If you’d like to share the history with your kids, the story can be found here: Jacob’s Ladder, now the Birch Ruins – Northern Colorado History

Trout Haven

If you’d like to do some fishing with your children but doing so in the park was overwhelming or you didn’t want to pack your gear, Trout Haven is a great spot. Their stocked pond guarantees you will catch something and your kids will feel successful! They provide the gear and bait and you keep what you catch. You pay by the inch of the fish you catch, and they will filet your fish for you to take home. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays.

Dining Options in Estes Park

While many accommodations provide opportunities for you to cook your meals, it’s certainly a treat to go out and try the local restaurants or enjoy a meal while strolling downtown.

Notchtop Breakfast & Lunch is a great spot for home cooking and large portions. If you have a slow morning available, this is a delicious location to check out.

Poppy’s Pizza and Grill is a casual sit-down restaurant along the riverwalk and also has outdoor seating with river views. There is a variety of menu options if everyone in your group wants something different, and they offer a diverse set of pizza choices.

If you’re in the mood for Mexican food, Ed’s Cantina is a good choice. I know sometimes we wonder if Colorado and Mexican food go together but Ed’s does a nice job!

If you’d just like to reward yourself with something sweet after a big day in the park, there are plenty of sweet shops in Estes! Who can visit a mountain town without getting saltwater taffy, fudge or ice cream?! Even in the cooler temperatures of fall, ice cream is a fun treat. The main drag of Elkhorn Avenue has several to choose from, but if you are on the west side of town closer to the park entrance, the Country Market of Estes Park on Moraine Avenue has great ice cream and milkshakes!

Mom Tip: While it’s fun to treat yourself to breakfast or dinner, pack picnics for lunch! There are so many wonderful spots for picnics inside the park or on the outskirts of Estes Park. You won’t want to come and go from your daily adventures just to find food, and it’ll save you money! You won’t regret picnicking with those majestic mountain views!

 

Rocky Mountain National Park has so many trails, waterfalls and wildlife to offer, it is not surprising that many people go back year after year. It is simply impossible to do it all in one trip. But with a little planning ahead of time and flexibility upon arrival, you are sure to have a wonderful visit!

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Megan Jones
Megan has lived many places, but currently lives in Parker, CO. Megan and her husband, Cannon, met at Baylor University (sic ‘em Bears!) and have been married for 17 years. They were given the opportunity to transfer to the Denver area two years ago and couldn’t resist! Megan loves nature, especially mountains, and the gorgeous Colorado weather that allows her so many chances to get out hiking or just playing with her 3 kids. She has a 12-year-old about-to-be-junior-high daughter, a gymnastics-loving 9-year-old daughter and a 6-year-old son who keeps everyone on their toes! Nothing compares to his zest for life! Megan decided to be a stay-at-home mom when her first daughter was born, so she knows that making it this far on her journey is only thanks to a village, whether in-person or long-distance, and has a passion for connecting with other moms and encouraging them on their motherhood journeys as well.

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